Nature | Travel | Life
A Chance Meeting with the Arts
The quiet moment when day turns into night allows for calm thoughts.
夜與日交替之際，讓人安靜沉澱思緒。[Source: Huang Zhiwei]
Take a deep breath of the coastal air as you step out of the Taitung Railway Station. As you get a feel for the city’s rhythm, you will find that art and life are closely intertwined in Taitung. Strolling through the streets of the city, feel the breath of the ocean as it blows around street cor ners, over the eaves, and gently br ushes against your clothes. Meandering through its twisting alleyways, you will find surprises at every step.
走出台東火車站，深深吸一口東海岸的空氣，聆聽 城市的節奏，你會發現，台東式藝術如此貼近生活，漫 步在城市的街道上，海的氣息吹過街角，翻上屋簷，拂 動衣角，行走在巷弄轉角間，處處都能看見不同的驚喜。
By chance, you find yourself walking past a particularly captivating mural. On it, Western aesthetics merge with the earnest sensibilities of Taiwan’s rural life. Having seen it, you might want to stop and use this as a photo backdrop, thereby adding a dash of Taitung-style art to the souvenirs of your journey.
There is an artistic flair and a warm sense of history along the tranquil city streets, which runs through its architecture. Tourism has brought the crowds back to the old Baosang neighborhood, an area of some prominence during the Japanese occupation. Nearby, the old Japanese-style dormitory buildings that now make up the Baoting Art Center, after having been abandoned and sitting quietly for many years, are restored and brought back to life as if in meditation. Listen carefully and you can almost hear the spirit of the old house murmuring softly, saying to the passing travelers, “Oh, you are here at last!”
慢城飛花，藝術落在悠閒的街上，老建築帶著溫潤的歷史感，在歲月中寧靜而 禪定，不定期的展演活動，將人潮帶回寶桑町日式宿舍建築，寂靜多年的屋舍再度 充滿人氣，仔細聆聽，彷彿能夠聽見老屋的靈魂在輕聲呢喃，和藹地向旅人們道一聲，「你來了呀！」
Childhood memories of countryside life captured on the walls of a random street corner.
What kind of scenery is on the other side of the tracks?
The Taitung Railway Art Village is a choice place for a family outing.
Situated at the foot of Liyu (Carp) Mountain, the Taitung Railway Art Village is especially suitable for family trips. Colorful art installations sit amongst groups of noisy onlookers and quiet old warehouses. Such a scene reveals its unique charm. With its long history, the old railway station is now interspersed with the new generation of artists’ lively creativity. Although the trains have long stopped running, this remains a place where travelers come to meet to experience the Taitung special ambiance.
Cooking up Poetry and Music
Walking into the Datong traditional market, straight away, you are greeted with the eclectic smell of fresh fish, meat, fruits, and vegetables, and the sound of merchants greeting the passers-by warmly. Go up close to one of the stalls and see if you can recognize the produce names neatly displayed there. A neighboring stall is surrounded by billowing white steam. As the owner’s hands work feverishly, the stewed pork rice and meatball soup in the pot exude a strong aroma, which is commonplace and yet deeply significant in the locals’ life.
The Taitung Old Street Festival starts at Datong Market and takes visitors to experience Taitung life elements that simply cannot be gleaned from a travel guide. Take some time to visit the Taitung branch of the Chinese Association Hall, whose vast spaces resound with war’s solemnity and the glory of human achievement. Step through the Datong Theater’s heavy antique gates and cast your eyes over the yellowed movie posters and programs that appear to have been frozen in time since 2009. Let your curiosity guide you and explore every nook and cranny in Taitung! Taitung’s elderly inhabitants will gladly greet any passers- by, using the warmth of their welcome to melt away the burdensome fatigue of those who have journeyed from afar.
Seizing upon the sensations of daily life and weaving them into bundles of poignant descriptive verse is the art of the poets who have gathered at the Taitung Poetry Festival. Here, poets of different regions, ethnic groups, generations, and styles are brought together to sing Taitung’s praises through poetry and song. Each of them brings their own style and perspective to the celebration of Taitung’s perpetual charm.
“The rooftops may be lower, but the sky here is much higher than in Taipei / The lights may be dimmer, but the stars here are much brighter than in Taipei / The people may be sparser, but the mountains here are much denser than in the Western lands… No matter how the earth spins, Taitung is forever in front of your gaze”. This is Taitung as described by the poet Yu Kwan-Chung. Is it also the Taitung which now sits in front of your eyes?
Poetry f lies over the mountains, sails over the sea, rests in front of the fire, and nestles between the cups and plates; it basks in the sunlight, lingers in the moonlight, and flows continually in and out of our hearts. Travelers can always bring a unique sensibility to the words which describe and ref lect the life of Taitung. Lift your pen and write! Write a Taitung poem that belongs to you alone.
走進大同傳統市場，撲鼻而來的，有新鮮的魚、肉和蔬果的氣味，老闆熱情地 招呼客人，走近一點，瞧瞧那陳列整齊的生鮮食品，是否都知道它們的名字；鄰近 冒著白煙的小吃攤，老闆的手不停歇，滷肉飯、貢丸湯散發濃郁的香氣，是老台東 人生活中一道樸實無華卻又深刻的風景。
巷弄舊事生活節，從大同市場出發，帶著旅人走訪書中不曾紀錄下的台東，中 華會館台東分社空曠的空間內，迴盪著戰爭的肅穆和人性的光輝；走過大同戲院， 老戲院大門深鎖，泛黃的電影海報和電影場次告示牌將時光凍結在 2009 年。隨著好 奇心走入台東的角落去探索吧！台東的阿公阿嬤總會熱情的招待所有人，用滿滿的溫 暖，融化旅人遠道而來的疲憊。
將生活的細節轉化，凝鍊成感動人心的文字，台東詩歌節匯集了不同區域、族 群、世代、風格的詩人們參與，用朗讀、吟唱的方式讚美台東，讓詩不再高高在上， 更多了一點生活感。
「城比台北是矮一點 天比台北卻高得多／燈比台北是淡一點 星比台北卻亮得 多／人比西岸是稀一點 山比西岸卻密得多……無論地球怎麼轉 台東永遠在前面」 這是詩人余光中筆下的台東，是否也是你眼中的台東呢？
詩在山上，在海邊；在爐火前，在杯盤間；在陽光下，在月光中，又或者，詩 就在我們的心裡，旅人的外來眼光，總能為台東寫下不一樣的篇章，提起筆來書寫 吧！寫一首獨屬於自己在台東旅行的詩歌。
Walking through one alley after another, experience an in-depth tour of Taitung’s old neighborhoods. [Source: Taitung Old Street Cultural and Creative
Village FB] 行走巷弄間，來一場老台東的深度旅遊。（照／舊街文創聚落）
A Resounding Energy at the Border of Tectonic Plates
The soil and water of a land nurtures its own culture of people. The diverse lifestyles of different places produce different perspectives of the world. Taitung’s lush natural landscape, intertwined with its particularly rich cultural context, provides an exceptionally fertile soil for artistic creation. Whether you are from Taitung or from elsewhere, young and old alike, all these artists who now call Taitung home draw unparalleled inspiration from the powerful and entrancing spirit of this land.
Paul Chiang was already an old master of contemporary art. When he arrived in Taitung, he was immediately and profoundly influenced by the dazzling sunshine and untamed landscape of the east coast. His style of painting transformed from its original dark and gloomy feel to one which regularly makes use of bold and vivid colors to bring a bit of Taitung’s unique beauty to the canvas. Visiting the Paul Chiang Art Center, you will certainly get a sense of its innately accommodating and spiritual nature, and with its beguilingly warm and bright atmosphere, you may feel like you never want to leave.
一方水土養一方人，不 同城市的生活風格，造就凝 視世界不同的角度，台東得 天獨厚的自然環境，和多元 族群交織相融的文化背景， 為藝術創作提供最堅實的土 壤，無論在地或外來，成熟 或年輕，生活在此的藝術 家，在創作上早已離不開這 迷人而純粹的台東靈魂。
已經年 過古稀 的當代 藝術大師－江賢二自從來到 台東以後，受東海岸明燦燦 的陽光和自然野性所影響， 一改原先陰鬱暗沉的繪畫風 格，用色大膽而鮮明，將台 東之美，融於筆下多變的色 彩中，走訪江賢二藝術園 區，同樣也會被空間裡隱含 的彈性與靈性，以及整體溫 暖明亮的氛圍深深吸引，再 也無法離開。
“Island’s Shadow” by Rahic Talif
Paul Chiang’s “Pisirian Dream”. This particular piece is reflective of his painting style shift after being influenced by his move to Taitung.
“I often waited in the fields to bear witness to the sublime morning sunrise. Deep yellows emerged from greyish purples, and the ridges of the mountains lit up with a verdant green. All the while, the valley at the foot of the mountain was still in the shadow. Light and darkness interchanged with every passing second. I would not dare to blink for fear of missing a moment of this dreamlike scene.”
When first setting eyes upon the landscape of Chishang, even the most brilliant poets were lost for words. Chiang Hsun, who was based in Taitung, turned to his pen to describe its ephemeral beauty. From the churning sea of clouds in the horizon, the wind gushing over waves of rice, and the mystical scene of lotus pond in the rain, to cameos from an amiable shopkeeper and a lazy napping cat in a bookstore, Chiang Hsun seized upon every detail to delicately depict the trickling of years in the Rift Valley.
Will the memories you leave behind be just as lovely?
「我常常等在田野裡看旭日曙光的變化，從灰紫裡透出赭紅， 山的稜線亮起青翠的綠，山腳溪谷卻還在暗影中，明和暗一分一 秒變幻，不敢眨眼，怕錯過瞬息夢幻般的光。」
駐點台東的蔣勳初見池上之美，除了驚嘆還是驚嘆，再好的 文人，在壯麗的景色面前都失了語言，其畫筆下的池上千變萬化， 遠方翻騰的雲海、被風吹拂的稻浪、雨中的荷花池，熱情的小店 老闆和書店懶散的貓，細膩刻劃了縱谷間的涓滴歲月。
The early morning view of Dapo Lake is tranquil and yet positively sublime.
When you come to Taitung, is the scenery in front of you a warm and resplendent work of impressionism? Or is it rather a work of roma nticism – t ra nquil, sensitive, but full of passionate energy? Could it be an exercise in minimalistic abstractionism, which provides space for the lim itless imagination of the beholder?
In a f lurry of controlled chaos one can see various points, lines and shapes forming Taitung’s singular abstract vision. Lin Shengxian’s paintings lead people to explore their inner world by way of outward sensations. Following his lead, choose any corner of the city or of the surrounding townships to base yourself upon, and you can bring your own sensibilities into an interpretation of Taitung’s vistas. Artistic beauty emanates from within.
“The land of Taitung will cling to you.” Here, artistry has achieved objectivity: the colors of nature have attained the brightness and heedful splendor of a painting, embodied the charm of poetry and softened its people’s appearance. Anyone who comes here can relax and let its spirit take them over. In Taitung, and through Taitung, you will find unexpected answers to the questions which have encumbered you throughout your life.
Staring out at the Pacific Ocean, surrounded by mountains, and letting the white waves rise up the beach and lick over your ankles, you can practically feel the vibration of tectonic plates under your feet. The romance of the island is born from this. Have you felt it?
點、線、面，以一種看似雜亂卻井然有序的方式，拼湊出一個抽象的台東，林 勝賢的畫帶領著人們探索內心世界，選擇城市或鄉間的任何一個角落，你可以盡情 地詮釋台東，將人文之美深深刻畫在回憶中。
「台東的土地會黏人。」在這裡，藝術起了化學變化，大自然的色彩成就了畫的 明豔，詩的嫵媚，柔和了人的面貌。任何人來到在這裡，都可以靜下心來，感受天 地間的純淨能量，每一刻對人生做出的提問，都能獲得意想不到的解答。
An abstract painting by Lin Shengxian
Taitung is on the boundary of tectonic plates and welcomes one new wave of art after another.
台東人這樣過生活 Live to Live – Taitung Style
翻山越嶺，發現桃花源 Discover Paradise on Earth Over the Other Side of the Mountains & Ridges
山的氣息 Scents of The Mountain
你的每一種心情，都有一片適合的海 An Ocean to Suit Every Mood for Everyone
與海共舞 Dancing with the Ocean
南方之歌 Songs of the South
豐饒之海 Abundance of the Sea
啟動慢餐桌 Slow Food is Served
藝術之風 Artistry in the Air
藝術相逢於偶然 A Chance Meeting with the Arts
這樣子生活很台東 This Is Taitung Living