Nature | Travel | Life
Slow Food is Served
Slow life down, sit down and really enjoy a meal with your loved ones.
It ta kes about two hours to leisurely drive from Taitung City to the many wonderful restaurants in Changbin. Likewise, one might choose to drive up one of the worn, unlit mountain roads to enjoy a hot pot of fresh seasonal wild vegetables while taking in the night view of Taitung City. The motto “waste your life on good things” from a popular commercial perfectly portrays the idea of the “slow life” embraced in Taitung. After finishing your meal, take your time to return to your lodgings.
Combining international trends with local life implementing the concept of farm to table, the Taitung Slow Food Festival has already attracted followers worldwide. The concept of “slow dining” also promotes environmental awareness by encouraging attendees to bring their own utensils and dishes. Mobile washing stations are provided for event goers to wash their hands and dishes before deciding on what food to try next!
The Taitung Slow Food Festival combines international trends with local life implementing the concept of farm to table, and has already attracted followers worldwide. The concept of “slow dining” also promotes environmental awareness by encouraging attendees to bring their own utensils and dishes to try the local, seasonal food on offer.
The Taitung Slow Food Festival combines the values of a friendly environment, culinary food culture, and fair trade to develop a renewed culinary culture, and has gradually grown to embrace the culinary spirit of eating locally and seasonally.
Emphasizing the three mottos of Good, Clean, and Fair, most of the Slow Food Festival participating vendors’ offerings are prepared from the produce of their gardens, local farms. Local sourcing ensures all meals provided are safe, organic, and tasty. Different theme is presented at each of the quarterly Slow Food Festival. Each season’s theme showcasing the different culinary cultures and cooking creativity of Taitung’s varied areas. If you want to save yourself the trouble of rushing around, and would rather spend your time merrily enjoying slow food from all over Taitung in one place, then definitely don’t miss out on the Taitung Slow Food Festival.
Slow lifestyle, slow food, slow cities… No one in Taitung needs convincing to adopt the principle of the “slowness” originating in Italy as people here have always lived this way.
從台東市往北，開車大約 2 小時才能到達位於長濱的無菜單餐廳，或走一條破碎又沒有路燈的小路上山，邊吃阿美族當季野菜火鍋邊欣賞台東市夜景。「生命就該浪費在美好的事務上」，這句經典廣告台詞就是台東慢生活的寫照，台東人習慣「慢」，快不起來。
「台東慢食節」結合了國際潮流與在地生活，實現從產地到餐桌的理想，已經在世界各地培養出一群「鐵粉」，慢食的同時也導入了環保概念，推廣自備餐具的新生 活習慣，沒帶餐具參加台東慢食節的心情，除了格格不入之外，也會相當扼腕無法 放心大啖當地當季的限定美食。
台東慢食節系列活動結合友善環境、飲食文化、生產 / 消費公平等價值而發展 成一種新的飲食文化，也逐漸形成「吃在地、品當季」的飲食精神。
強調好品質（Good）、乾淨（Clean）、公平交易（Fair）三大理念，許多店家原本 就從自家菜園摘採作物，或是與認熟識的農民合作認購品質保證的農作物，確保每 一份提供給客人的餐點，都是安心且美味的。每一次的慢食節，都會訂下不同的主 題，展現台東各個地區的飲食文化和創意料理。如果你想節省一點時間奔波，一次 享用台東各地的慢食料理，又想好好浪費生命，那就絕對不要錯過台東慢食節。
Travelers and Slow Food Festival vendors gather in Taitung’s Fantasy Tiehua.
Slow food in Our Daily Life
It is worth taking the time to enjoy good food slowly. Time is required to slow sim mer a delicious meal and to transform something ordinary into something exquisite and moving.
At 4 AM when most are fast asleep, the steam is already wafting from the bean curd (doupi) store i n Ch isha ng, as t he “doupi“masters, enveloped by the steam from the boiling pots of soy milk, begin their days work. They ladle the boiled soy milk into large steel trays and as the layers of “tofu skin” congeal they are removed and hung on bamboo racks to dry. As they dry, they are removed and folded into “soy wrapper,”(doubao) the finished product. The air permeates with the fragrance of the soybean., the “soy wrapper,”(doubao) is then pan fried to crispy perfection and served with a bowl of fresh cold soy milk. The Chishang special breakfast embodiest he flavor of blissful happiness.
The process of grinding beans, boiling the milk, waiting for the surface to congeal and drying is laborious and time consuming, but cannot be abbreviated since this is what gives it the hand-made charm.
The small streetside snack of turnip cake embodies the traditional essence of slowness in that the minced pork meat sauce is simmered in an earthenware pot, the freshest Thai shrimps used here came all the way from Changbin township after a long day’s slow drive along the coast, rice soaked for over 8 hours to slowly to be later slowly ground into a rice paste. It is only then that shredded turnips are added and the entire content is then teamed over the stovetop. One small snack that only takes a few bites to polish would require over 8 hours to produce from start to finish. This kind of slow spirit bears the true essence of Taitung’s tradition as well as the spirits of SLOW.
美食值得花上時間細細享受，而製作過程 更是需要時間才能讓原本平凡的滋味成為永 恆，在心裡留下感動。
凌晨4點，多數人還在夢中，池上的豆皮店內已是熱氣蒸騰，師傅們頂著高溫熬煮豆漿， 開始一天的工作。師傅將滾燙的豆漿撈至鐡盤 中，待豆漿表面凝結一層薄薄的膜，撈起薄膜 掛置在竹竿上瀝乾成為豆皮，取下豆皮反覆折 疊就是常見的豆包。現煎豆包有著濃郁、甘醇 飽滿的黃豆香，再配杯冰豆漿，池上人的特色 早餐有樸實而幸福的味道。
從磨豆、煮漿、等待表層結膜、晾乾，純手工的製作過程耗時費力，卻有難以取代的迷人之處，讓人一試成主顧；或者細熬慢燉，甕裡小火噗噗地滾著肉臊，大骨高湯以微火持續熬出精華，只為提供一碗噴香的古早味湯底；也有堅持古法製程的老闆，每日用浸泡過的米磨成米漿，再加入蘿蔔泥入籠蒸熟，一塊蘿蔔糕的製程得花上 8 小時，是樸實又用心的美味。這就是台東，小吃裡蘊涵著傳統，也日日實現慢食的精神
The only way to maintain the traditional flavor of “Doupi”(tofu skin) is to make it the old fashioned way by hand.
Even in small noodle stalls, scrumptious food is made with the attentive spirit of craftsmanship.
The addition of fresh fruits and vegetables – an innovative approach to Hakka cooking.
Street snacks, banquet food and French fine dining all follow a parallel trend of the slow food life. The culinary artists of Eastern Taiwan use their unlimited creativity to transform the resources of the mountains and the sea into delicacies on the table.
This is no ordinary rotisserie chicken. The whole process from start to finish requires 8 hours just for slow marinating as this is the key to making sure the flavors are truly released during the roasting process. It might seem like a simple dish, but this rotisserie chicken combined both indigenous and french cooking techniques to bring out the tr ue “Taitung specialty”. All this hard work of cooking, prepping and buying his daily fresh ingredients is the true bliss to the master chef behind the kitchen.
While each vendor and shop has their own story, they share the same commitment to excellence. Their ideas and beliefs merge with their cooking so that when a meal is put on the table, you are not just swallowing food but also savoring the beauty, local customs and culture of Taitung. This is what motivates the chefs to work doubly hard and to avoid wasting ingredients, precisely because they cherish the high-quality agricultural products bred by the mountains and waters of Taitung.
Inexpensive and delicious Taitung snacks.
The Philosophy of Patience
The lifestyle in many Taitung towns and villages still very much resembles that of the sixties and seventies. Fish hawkers make their rounds through the neighborhoods peddling fish caught that mor ning. Tr ucks with vegetables, sundries, and even fresh bread will be at the same corner at the same time every day or can be flagged down as they pass.
The hand-made mochi truck comes on Monday and Friday at about eight in the morning. The tofu pudding and sweet mung bean smoothie truck comes at four in the afternoon Tuesday and Thursday. Make a note of the time, and when you have a real hankering for one of these things, it may be best to wait in your doorway for their arrival. If you are distracted for even a minute, you may end up having to race down the street in pursuit hollering for them to stop. Otherwise, you may have to wait until their next trip to assuage your desire. These are some of the hidden traditional flavors known only to locals.
In Taitung the shop owners who march to their own drummer’s beat are not in the minority. If you have your heart set on something, you will likely have to wait; wait for the snack truck to pass by, wait for the shop to open, and even wait for the boss to finish his surf session if the waves are good and return to work. Regardless of the store’s hour signs or their business hours posted on Google map or Facebook. If the surf forecast is good, some shops will unexpectedly be “not open” just because the boss wants to catch the perfect wave that day. Some stores will even remain closed on a heavy tourist weekend just because they want to spend quality time with their family. After all, this is the reason why people move to Taitung – to have a higher quality slower pace of life.
Leading the life they want to lead is the number one priority of many shop owners in Taitung no matter if they are from abroad or transplants from other areas of Taiwan. While work may be necessary, it does not need to be the primary focus of one’s life. Ideally, one would find the perfect balance between work and life. Rather than fuming about when the shop owner might return, wouldn’t it be better to simply consider it a blessing when you do get what you came for? Adopting this attitude will allow you to gradually become like the easy-going people of Taitung.
小吃是日常一味，大宴、法式 Fine Dinning 也順應著慢食生活的浪潮，料理職人以自己的無限創意，將東台灣大山大海的氣息，淬煉成餐桌上的美味。 每日浸漬 8 小時才能入爐悶烤的全雞，一旦訂購時間晚了，再怎麼央求都吃不到，只因為浸泡時間不夠味道就不對；運用原住民料理結合法式廚藝，呈現台東在地特色「每天親手採集要用的食材，對一個廚師來說，是最幸福的狀態。」能在台東 料理的主廚們每天都這麼思忳，幸福上工。
一個店家，一個故事，相同的是對料理的堅持和用心，將所有的理念融入在一 道道匠心獨具的料理中，送上餐桌，吃進嘴裡的不只是美食，更是吃下了台東美麗 的風土與文化，而能讓主廚費盡心思、不願浪費食材的原因，正是因為他們珍惜台 東好山好水所孕育出高品質的農產品。
台東許多鄉鎮還保有 60、70 年代的生活方式，清晨剛抓上岸的魚，中午前由小 販載著漁獲沿街叫賣，也有專門賣菜、賣雜貨，甚至賣麵包的車子，在固定的時間 來到村子定點販售，還可以隨時攔下車子購買日常所需。
手工麻糬的車子每週一、五早上 8 點左右經過，賣豆花和綠豆沙的車子每週二、 四下午 4 點會到……，時間可要記好，特別想吃的時候，最好坐在門口等，一個分 神錯過了，就得追在車子後大喊大叫讓老闆聽見，否則得等他下次來才能解饞，這 才是只有在地人知道的隱藏版古早味。
在台東，堅持自己生活步調的老闆可不是少數。想吃就得等，等老闆經過，等 營業時間到，甚至得等老闆清晨衝浪完回到工作崗位；明明公休是週二，為什麼週 三也沒開？在觀光客最多的週末，有些老闆竟然也放假休息了。
好好過自己想過的生活，是許多從國外或島內各處移居到台東的老闆們堅持的 生活哲學，工作雖然是必須，但賣命似的工作那可不行，工作與生活的平衡才是他 們的理想。如果還在為老闆不知道哪天才願意開門營業而惱怒，不如把吃到夢幻逸 品當成小確幸，慢慢地你也會變成隨性的台東人！
The nameless oden snack shop on Siwei Rd.
Classic Taitung Afternoon Tea
Outside the county swimming pool, old and young alike share fond memories of the snack truck that has been coming there every afternoon for the last thirty years. At about four in the afternoon, the truck makes its way to its regular spot where the hungry patrons have already gathered to wait. Swimmers, exhausted and chilled from the cool water, line up to buy some boiled “oden” snacks and hot broth. If they are still not sated, an extra order of grilled sausage will allow them to return home with a full belly.
The nameless snack shop on Siwei Rd also offers another inexpensive good pre- dinner snack option in Taitung. Because the stand has no name, locals refer to it as “Taitung style afternoon tea.” Hot, fragrant broth, simmering with bonito, fish cakes, meatballs, radish, sausage and other ingredients, is packed with umami f lavors that the fish cakes and the meatballs soaped up. After eating all the goodies, you must also drink the broth. This makes the perfect snack on a chilly winter afternoon as it not only fills your belly but also warms your heart.
縣立游泳池外，飄香三十餘年的小發財車是台東人從小到大的共同回憶，大約 在下午四點鐘，小發財車緩緩抵達定點，游泳池前已有三三兩兩等待著的人群，才 從游泳池裡爬上來，體力耗盡、身體還有點發冷，來上幾支黑輪，搭配一碗熱湯、 如果還不夠飽足，再來支烤香腸，就可以心滿意足的回家了。
四維路上無名的黑輪攤物美價廉，亦是台東人未到晚餐前止飢的好選擇，由於沒有名字，民眾乾脆稱呼為「台式下午茶」。添加了柴魚的高湯中，加入黑輪、貢丸、 蘿蔔、香腸等多種食材一起熬煮，吸飽了湯汁的黑輪鮮美、貢丸彈牙。吃完一定要 來碗熱湯，食材的豐潤口感和湯頭交融，在微冷的冬日午後不僅填飽你的胃、也讓 心溫暖起來。
The Flavors that Only Come With Time
It can feel like an ant tickling your he a r t a s you wa it t o che ck on t he veget ables or pork’s read i ness you began pick ling several days before. You count down the days until you can unseal the vat and enjoy the fruit of your labors.
Humans have been preserving food for centuries. The time of the pickling process lends flavor and character to the food. Salted raw pork belly is pickled and fermented for months before becoming “raw, pickled pork” or “siraw” in Amis. This is a delicacy to the Amis and is reserved for very special occasions or extraordinary guests. “Siraw” has the slight sour flavor of fermented food and when used to cook soup, lends a subtle sourness and smoothness to the broth. You really need to try this when you get the chance to!
Fresh catch from Chenggong Fishing Harbor is delivered directly to the processing plant. There, the heads, bones and innards are removed and the fish is steamed or boiled to solidify it. It is then dried and fermented to remove moisture for better preservation. While the blocks of fish harden over the next several months, they will darken in color and naturally cured blocks of fish become as hard as wood. It is then shaved thinly to make bonito flakes that are used for making basic stock.
Huma ns have long known that salt can be used to pickle and smoke crated while burning wood can dry and preserve foods. While modern technology can replace many traditional processes, there is still no substitute for something that is made by hand. Things that come from the heart are priceless.
Fish from Chenggong goes directly to the processing plant.
Mechanically shaved bonito flakes from Chenggon.
Pickled Specialties of Hakka Mothers
In any discussion of pickling, failure to mention the Hakka would be negligent. Vegetables, fruit, ginger, meat and beans: it is said that in the skilled hands of a Hakka mother there is nothing that cannot be pickled.
Dried Pickled Turnip (Caibo)
Daikon , or Japanese radish or turnip, is often planted when fields are left fallow. That which is not eaten fresh becomes the traditional village specialty of “caibo”. The turnips are washed clean and air dried then put into earthenware vats with salt and dried in the sun during the day. This process goes on for a week before they are stored in a sealed container.
The longer the dried pickled turnip is stored, the darker and more fragrant they become. The value increases the longer they are aged. In the community of Hsinpu in Guanshan, a “caibo” bank has been established where farmers can put their prized “caibo” and mark them with pickling date and price. During Daikon season it is common for tour groups to participate in Daikon pulling and pickling.
進入醃漬品的領域，必然會提到客家人五花八門的醃漬品，從水果、生薑、肉 類、豆類和豆製品，到各種鮮蔬，在客家媽媽的手裡，大概沒有任何食材是不能醃 漬保存的。
蘿蔔是農家休耕期常種的作物之一，秋收後到春耕前把吃不完的蘿蔔作成菜脯， 是傳統農村的特色；只要將蘿蔔洗淨後置於陰涼處風乾，再合裝入乾淨的陶罐內。 隨後每晚抹鹽、白天日曬，持續一個星期後密封儲藏即可。
陳放十數年的菜脯會愈來愈黑，卻多了時間醞釀的陳香，價格高昂堪比黃金； 關山的新埔社區甚至還開設了「蘿蔔銀行」，讓農民存放明標價碼、醃製日期的老菜 脯呢！生產季時的觀光行程，還能體驗當地的蘿蔔泡菜及拔蘿蔔活動。你的手指是否 想碰碰泥土、握緊蘿蔔葉梗了呢？
“Meigancai”is as important to Hakka culture as rice or tea.
“Meigancai” – Pickled Chinese Mustard
Any discussion of the Hakka culture or cuisi ne must include the mention of Meigancai.The proper amount of natural sea salt, sunshine of the east coast, and time, are the simple elements needed to turn an ordinary vegetable into a multitude of flavors. Different flavors and textures are achieved by slight variations in the time and methods of pickling of these pickled chinese mustard.
Chinese sauerkraut(Suancai) is extremely salty and acidic in taste. But it is well suited to season an appetizer dish to awaken your palate. Or it can be stir fried as an accompaniment to other foods. For example Hakka ginger stir fried intestine, just doesn’t taste right if the Chinese sauerkraut (Suancai) is omitted. “Fucai” is mostly used in soups adding depth to stocks. “Meigancai” is best used when cooking pork belly. The pork belly absorbs the flavor of the “Meigancai”, this dish leaves a rich, sweet aftertaste that will make you ask for a second bowl or rice. It is a savory and satisfying flavor loved by young and old,no wonder “Meigancai” braised pork has found a permanent place on the Hakka dining table.
酸菜口味酸鹹，適合做小菜或與其他食材同炒，如著名的客家菜薑絲炒大腸， 沒有酸菜就不夠味；福菜多用於煮湯，讓湯頭更馥郁；梅乾菜最適合與五花肉 同煮，吸飽了油脂的梅乾菜入口甘甜油潤，而五花肉則多了些梅乾菜的陳香， 老少咸宜的鹹甜口味，難怪梅乾焢肉這道菜能夠歷久不衰，是餐桌上永遠不敗 的經典。
Fresh bamboo shoots are one of the most popular foods of spring and summer. There are many ways to enjoy tender bamboo shoots. Sun-drying and pickling them accentuates a different level of flavors. Roughly chop up the bamboo shoots and boil them quickly while still fresh to rinse away the bitterness. Let them cool and slice them thin. Return them to the boiling water after they have cooled and cook until golden. Remove and allow to dry. Put the boiled bamboo shoots in a burlap sack with heavy stones on top to press the water out for at least one or two days. Only about one fifth of the volume will remain at the end of this process. Mix them with salt and press for one more day. Dry them in the sun and store them for later use.
The sweet and sour f lavor of the pickled dried bamboo is a fine accompaniment to fatty oily foods. It’s commonly used in dried bamboo braised pork and a common dish on restaurant menus.
Taste of life
During a short period of time, human society achieved a high level of capitalization and globalization. This has led to lifestyles once unimaginable. While technology and economies continue to develop, some people long to return to a simpler life more tightly connected to nature. They desire simplicity; to be woken by morning light and gain calm as the light leaves the sky. Living in Taitung is a choice. Choose to live by the ocean and watch the sun, moon and stars rise over the horizon, as the ocean continually serenades you. Choose to live in the valley, and experience the life of starting work at sunrise and going home at sunset. Let the mountain wind soothe your soul.
There is nothing more valuable in one’s life than time. Spend quality time by yourself and with your family to enjoy good meals and food together. Then go for a walk after and sip a cup of tea to catch up with your neighbors. This is the portrait of Taitung’s daily life, or perhaps the essence of a simple slow life.
Dried Bamboo cooked with Meigancai is a popular Hakka dish.
台東人這樣過生活 Live to Live – Taitung Style
翻山越嶺，發現桃花源 Discover Paradise on Earth Over the Other Side of the Mountains & Ridges
山的氣息 Scents of The Mountain
你的每一種心情，都有一片適合的海 An Ocean to Suit Every Mood for Everyone
與海共舞 Dancing with the Ocean
南方之歌 Songs of the South
豐饒之海 Abundance of the Sea
啟動慢餐桌 Slow Food is Served
藝術之風 Artistry in the Air
藝術相逢於偶然 A Chance Meeting with the Arts
這樣子生活很台東 This Is Taitung Living