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Songs of the South

南方之歌

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Bunun tribal members singing traditional songs in unison.
布農族合唱傳統歌謠。(照/蓋亞那工作坊)

What is the ‘South’? Is it the geographic South, or is it the South described in poetry? What defines the South? Is it the sun-scorched earth? The sultry summer air? The gracious glimpse of warmth before the winter harvest? Or is it the songs passed down through the generations, ringing out throughout the day as people sing homage to southern living?

Taiwan is in the southeast of Asia, and Taitung is in the southeast of Taiwan. There are indigenous tribes that are deeply rooted here, and people come from all over to join in on the celebration of life. Let us listen to the songs of the south where the land meets the sea.

「南方」究竟在哪裡?是地理上的南方,還是文字影像裡的南 方?被陽光烤熱的地面、夏季潮濕悶熱的空氣、冬季溫暖而短暫 並常伴隨作物豐收的慶典,還有祭儀裡、生活中傳唱的歌謠。

台灣在亞洲東南方,台東在台灣的東南隅,部落扎根於此, 來自各地的人們在此聚集,在陸地與海洋交會之處,讓我們一起 聽南方的歌。

Ancient Memories of Folk Songs

For thousands of years, the indigenous people of Taiwan have used song and dance to pass down their history and honor the gods. The colorful and diverse tribal culture that has emerged from Taitung’s soil makes for some of its most charming and vivid scenery.

A Gift from the Gods

Millet is the primary staple food for the indigenous people of Taiwan. Legend has it; millet is a gift given to humanity by the indigenous gods. Many rituals and superstitions have been founded thereupon. For example, When clearing land for crop farming, the tribespeople must first ask their ancestral spirits for instruction and inquire whether the land will be sufficiently fertile. Furthermore, if one suffers bad dreams during the night, the crop must not be planted the next day, for fear seeding some misfortune along with it. Cultivation, sowing, harvesting, and storing up to the great celebrations of the harvest, every step must be treated with the spirit of solemnity and devotion to ensure that the millet crop bears the gods’ blessing and the wholehearted care of the people.

Since millet is so precious to the tribal communities, it is natural that it would be a prominent feature of celebrations. Drinking millet wine to honor both the land and the ancestral spirits is an essential part of the indigenous culture. On special occasions, such as births, weddings, and sacrifices, the tribal people will drink millet wine together to share their joys.

In addition to millet wine, special occasions often feature the traditional ‘A Bai’. A Bai is a kind of dumpling comprised of millet and pork pieces wrapped in a layer of edible plant leaves, then wrapped once again in shell ginger leaves and tied with cotton string. Once steamed, carefully open the outermost layer of shell ginger leaves, and let the aromatic vapors brush against your face. Although it appears to be a simple dish, the plump and flavorsome pork combined with the soft and sticky millet and leaves together make it a gorgeously multi-layered bundle of flavors, textures, and fragrances. It’s like a gift of nature ought to be – simple but wholly satisfying.

千百年傳唱的歌謠

千百年來,居住在台灣的原住民都以歌謠傳唱部落歷史,以樂舞取悅神靈,而 他們繽紛多元的部落文化,是台東最迷人也最鮮明的風景。

神的禮物

小米是台灣原住民最重要的主食,在許多部落的傳說中,小米是天神賜予人們 的禮物,也衍生出許多與之相應的祭儀和禁忌,開墾土地時先請示祖靈,詢問即將 要播種的土地是否能夠耕作;播種前如果做了不好的夢,第二天就不能播種,從開墾、 播種、收割、進倉,到最盛大的豐年祭,每一個步驟都必須以莊嚴肅穆的精神對待, 小米就在全心祝福、細心呵護中成長。

小米既是如此珍貴,在重要場合裡自然少不了它的身影。用小米釀製成小米酒 敬天地、獻祖靈,是原住民文化重要的一環;其他重要日子裡,例如生子、婚慶時, 部落族人也會分享小米酒表達喜悅與祝賀之意。

除了小米酒,阿拜(A Bai)也常出現在祝禱的場合裡,以一層甲酸漿葉 (Lavilu: 排灣族語,原住民常食用野菜名 ) 包裹著小米和豬肉塊,最外層再以月桃葉包覆, 並以綿繩紮緊後蒸熟即可食用。食用小米容易胃脹氣,以甲酸漿葉包裹搭配食用, 可減少腸胃不適,這可是原住民世代傳承的生活智慧。

小心地打開最外層的月桃葉,香氣撲面而來,趁熱咬下一口阿拜,小米軟糯、 豬肉豐腴,口感與氣味層層交疊,吃到大自然的恩賜,感受簡單又滿足的幸福。

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The indigenous peoples consider millet to be their most valuable crop. 小米是原住民最重視的農作物。

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The indigenous peoples consider millet to be their most valuable crop. 小米是原住民最重視的農作物。

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Abai – the indigenous rice dumplings – is an indispensable delicacy served on special occasions. 重要場合裡,阿拜是必備食物。

Dance! Sing! The Harvest Has Come!

Without a doubt, the most important ceremony in indigenous culture is the annual harvest festival. Every August, it is not only Taitung’s sun which burns hot, but its people too. Around this time, the indigenous tribes are filled with an extraordinary sense of zeal and vitality. The youths who would normally be found loitering in doorways, shooting the breeze in the cool summer night air, have gone missing

they have all rushed off to participate in rehearsals for the all-important day. This is the biggest event in the life of the tribe, and the millet harvest festival is about to begin!

Behold! They retr ieve their well-maintained traditional costumes from their cupboards and dress up to participate in the ceremonies. On the way to the meeting ground, they walk upright as if on a catwalk, with dazzling proud smiles across their faces, and the jingling of the bells attached to their garments signal their approach from several blocks away.

舞吧!唱吧!豐年祭!

在原住民文化中最為重要的祭儀,當屬一年一度的豐年祭,每到 8 月,台東不 只是空氣熱,連人都熱起來,部落裡,彌漫著一股忙碌鮮活的動感;平常大夥兒習 慣在家門口吹著夏夜沁涼晚風聊著天,如今突然不見蹤影,他們全都去參與各種聚 會與歌舞排練,這是部落最大的盛事,豐年祭/小米豐收祭即將展開!

族人從衣櫃裡取出保存良好的傳統服飾,盛裝參與祭典,那昂然挺立的樣子像是 走在時裝伸展台,臉上綻放著燦爛的笑靨,衣飾上的鈴鐺傳神地表現了雀躍的心情。

祭典中,他們沉靜下來,莊嚴肅穆地吟唱詩歌邀請祖靈共襄盛舉,晚宴裡,他 們高唱歡騰的曲調,每個人交叉牽手成為一條長長的人龍起舞,當他們邀請觀禮者 共舞時,把握機會,與族人一起慶豐年吧!

除了豐年祭,還有些各族獨有的祭儀,例如相當重視海洋的達悟族有飛魚季、 布農族的射耳祭,排灣族的五年祭等,每一種祭儀背後,都是族群與環境的對話, 也是重要的文化傳承,觀禮時,抱持同樣虔敬的心,相信原住民朋友也能感受到這 份心意。

During the ceremony, they compose themselves to sing a solemn prayer, inviting their ancestral spirits to participate in the day’s festivities. They then join hands in a cross pattern, sing joyous tunes, and dance together in a long line. When the time comes for them to invite spectators in, be sure to seize the opportunity to celebrate the good harvest with the tribe.

Along with the harvest festival, some rituals are unique to certain tribal groups. For example, the Yami people, who attach great importance to the ocean, celebrate the Flying Fish Festival; meanwhile, the Bunun people have an Ear Shooting Festival (Malahodaigian Ritual), and the Paiwan p e ople have t hei r ow n Q u i nquen n ia l Ha r vest Fest iva l (Maleveq). Behind each of these rituals is a deep cultural heritage, passed down from one generation to the next, preserving tight ethnic bonds. When watching any ceremony, be sure to carry a sense of veneration in your heart, and know that your indigenous friends can sense your sincerity.

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Bunun Tribe’s Ear Shooting Festival 布農族射耳祭

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Amis Harvest Festival 阿美族豐年祭

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Orchid Island Tatala Launching Ceremony
蘭嶼大船下水祭(照/姜柷山)

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At the Pinuyumayan Millet Harvest Festival, tribal members swing on bamboo to pray for blessings. The higher one can swing, the more fortune one shall receive.
卑南族小米收獲祭中,以盪鞦韆祈福,盪得愈高運氣愈好。

The Act of Sharing – Uniting the Hearts of the People

Large chunks of meat are sizzling on a scalding stone slab. Whether it is the meat of a boar or a hare, every evening’s feast relies on those brave and skillful souls who have trudged over mountains and rivers to put their hunting skills to the test. It is the pride of tribal warriors to be able to share their catch with the tribe.

Although animal husbandry has more or less replaced hunting in today’s society, “dividing the catch,” as it is known, is still a very important matter in tribal communities. Whether it is a wedding, the completion of a new home, or the glory achieved by a tribesperson in competition, all must be celebrated with ample feasting. When ‘dividing the catch ’, it is of the utmost importance to follow the tribe’s rules and distribute the cuts of the meat according to age and status. Each portion must be measured carefully, as its size indicates to the receiver a sense of the honor of the rank which they have achieved and, to those who receive a smaller portion, the honor which is yet to come.

Unspoken rules run deep in tribal tradition. While the cutting of the meat at a feast lets us observe the tribal hierarchy organization, there is also a special significance, far larger than merely filling the stomach, of eating a pot of Shaking Rice at the family table together.

For as long as anyone can remember, ‘Sha k ing R ice’ (Pinuljacengan) has been made by boiling millet in a large pot, then adding red quinoa, Garland chrysanthemum, black nightshade, and other seasonal wild vegetables one by one. While cooking, one must be careful to stir the stew from time to time, using a large wooden stick, to stop the bottom from burning. The name ‘Shaking Rice’ is derived from the way that one’s body shakes while stirring.

After bringing the large pot of stew to table, the ‘vuvu’ [a name for grandparents in the Paiwan language] will tell you that one must not start eating from the middle of the pot. Each family member must use their own spoon to dig in  from the place closest to them. Furthermore, one must eat slowly, with a grateful heart, and remember to save a bite of food for those who are returning home late. Therefore, sharing a pot of Shaking Rice displays a heartfelt sense of warmth and community, with a deep reverence for what it means to be family.

分享,凝聚族人的心

大塊大塊的肉在高溫石板上滋滋作響,無論是山豬還是野兔,都是獵人跋山涉 水,以自身狩獵技巧帶回來的獵物,是部落勇士們的驕傲。

儘管現今社會的畜牧業已經取代大部分的狩獵活動,但「分享獵物」仍是部落中 相當重要的事;分享獵物時,需遵循部落裡代代傳下來的規矩,按照大小、部位等 級分送給不同地位的人,數量不能馬虎,分多分少都關係著部落秩序和人與人的親 疏遠近。

傳統中有許多不成文的潛規則,例如在分享獵物時可以窺見部落裡的階層組織, 而在家中餐桌上,共吃一鍋搖搖飯的意義,也不只填飽肚子。

從前煮搖搖飯是在大灶上用大鍋子煮水和小米,再逐一加入紅藜、山茼蒿、龍 葵等當季野菜一同燉煮,由於大鍋飯底部容易煮焦,掌勺者必須時時以長長的木棍 在鍋中不停攪拌,攪拌時身體隨之搖晃,而有了搖搖飯之名。

搖搖飯送上餐桌後,vuvu(排灣族語中祖父祖母的稱呼)會告訴你,吃搖搖飯時 絕對不能從中間開始吃,必須一人一支湯匙從最靠近自己的地方挖取食用,而且要 慢慢的吃,帶著感恩天地的心,並為晚歸的家人留一口飯。共吃一鍋搖搖飯,蘊含著關懷與分享,也是彼此視對家人的方為心意。

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Zongzi (rice dumpling) is usually seasoned glutinous rice filled with pork, dried shiitake mushrooms, salted egg yolks and other ingredients. It’s wrapped with bamboo leaves, then tied with string and steamed. Zongzi is an indispensable food at the Dragon Boat Festival.
以糯米包豬肉、香菇、蛋黃等食材,再以竹葉裹在最外層,綁緊後蒸熟即可食用,是端午節不可少的粽子。

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The turtle-shaped red sticky rice cake, which is made of a glutinous rice shell stuffed with red bean paste, bears an auspicious and celebratory meaning.
外皮以糯米製成,內部大多為紅豆饀的紅龜粿有吉祥、喜慶的意義。

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You can order rice noodles in almost every eatery in Taitung. It’s a musttry if this is your first time visiting!
台東有許多店家以米苔目聞名,快來一飽口福。

Diligent people, Looking for Fields of Hope

While the indigenous peoples sustained themselves using hunting, gathering, and farming alike, the Han people were experts in farming alone. Many years ago, they risked their lives to cross the strait from China to Taiwan, looking for suitable farmland. There, they cleared land, dug waterways to divert water for irrigation, and sowed all of their hopes into acres of rice fields.

Savoring Rice in All Ways

The Han people relied on rice as their staple food, and therefore, naturally, brought their rice-far ming culture with them. Different types of rice have developed different styles of food. Round glutinous rice, for example, is sweet and sticky, making it most suitable for desserts. On the other hand, long glutinous rice has a robust and chewy texture that is more suitable for savoury dishes. Furthermore, every important occasion in Han culture is graced with a selection of rice dishes, specially decorated with auspicious patterns and symbols which attract good fortune.

勤懇的人,在土地裡尋找希望

原住民的生活中,狩獵、採集與農務並存,而漢人則擅於農耕;數百年前,他們冒著生命危險渡海來到台灣,尋找適合耕作的地方,移走土石,挖掘水道引水灌 概土地,將所有的希望寄託在一畝又一畝的稻田裡。

米食好味道

漢人以稻米為主食,自然也帶進了米食文化。不同的米種發展出不同的美食型 式,圓糯米又甜又黏,最適合做成甜點;長糯米口感硬中帶 Q 彈,常做成鹹食。每 逢重要的生命禮俗及歲時節慶,家庭中會準備各種以米製成的食物,並在米食上做 出許多象徵吉祥的花樣,用以祈福。

Food made out of rice comes in every shape and form; and also takes on different f lavors. There is one rice dish that is peculiar to Taitung and rarely found elsewhere. This is the famous Taitung-style rice noodle found almost in every restaurant and every home kitchen!

After being soaked in water, rice is pounded into a paste and then heated to make it firm. At this point, the paste can be processed into a noodle shape using a type of sieve. As a savoury option, Taitung’s rice noodle often comes in a fragrant broth, topped with a spoonful of braised minced pork meat and a dashing of Taitung’s specialty bonito fish f lakes. For those with an especially vigorous appetite, a braised hard-boiled egg can be added as well. For desser t, rice noodles can be eaten in a sweet soup or added to flavored shaved ice, the latter of which is particularly refreshing in the balmy Taitung summer. One way or another, travelers looking to experience a delicacy unique to Taitung are certainly encouraged to try its rice noodles.

Show Respect for Heaven and Earth, and Pray for the Favors of the Gods

Wandering the streets of Taitung, you will encounter a temple at almost every turn. Those honored within may be Lord Ksitigarbha, Guanyin (the goddess of mercy), or ancient heroes who are said to have performed their prodigious acts in the local area. In areas inhabited by Han people, you will almost certainly find a shrine for Tu Di Gong – the deity of the earth god. Nowadays, Tu Di Gong is seen as a kindly elder brother who takes care of all living beings indiscriminately. We can tell you here, in confidence, that every Tu Di Gong has something that he especially loves to eat. Bring the right offerings, and the chances of your wish coming true will certainly increase!

敬天地,祈求眾神眷顧

走在台東的街道上,每隔幾個街區就會有一間宮廟,裡面祭祀的或許是土地公、 地藏王、觀世音,又或者是當地有著特殊事蹟的人物,其中以庇佑一方土地的土地 公最為常見,只要有漢人聚居的村落幾乎就有土地公,若以現代人的角度來看,土 地公就好像大家的里長伯,總是親切地看顧一方眾生。偷偷告訴你,每一尊土地公 可能都有自己愛吃的東西,帶上對的供品祈福,願望成真的機率會變高喔!

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The more vehement the Bombing of Master Han Dan, the better the luck one can expect to be granted.
愈猛烈地炮炸寒單爺,愈能求得好運。(照/臺東縣政府)

在日常飲食裡,米以各種不同的型態,出現在台東人的餐桌上,各有各的美味之處。台東還有一個特別之處,台東的街頭巷尾到處都能吃到米苔目! 米泡水後打成漿,小火加熱米漿,使米漿變糊變硬,接著就可以利用有孔洞的工具過篩米糊,成為一條一條的米苔目。

米苔目甜鹹皆宜,鹹食米苔目大多有著香氣四溢的高湯,淋上一匙肉臊,上桌前擺上台東特產的柴魚片,還可以加一顆滷蛋 增加飽足感;煮點甜湯加進米苔目就是一碗古早味甜點,在晚餐前的空檔,一碗冰 冰甜甜的米苔目讓午後昏昏欲睡的人們清醒;而在剉冰裡加進米苔目,也是很獨特 的吃法,在夏日裡絕對能振奮精神。

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Tu Di Gong – the deity of the earth god is a divine figure of great importance in the Han religion.
土地公廟是漢人重要的信仰。

By all means, be comforted by the compassion and loving kindness of Tu Di Gong, but be weary of offending the fearsome and awe-inspiring Master Han Dan.

Master Handan is a prominent figure in Taitung. At the annual Lantern Festival, Taitung is a stage to a very special ceremony, the great Bombing of Master Handan. There are varying opinions on the origin of this peculiar celebration. Some say that Master Handan is afraid of the cold and that the blanket of firecrackers thrown his way are intended to bring him warmth and comfort. Others say that having done a lot of evil earlier in life, Master Handan decided that, upon becoming immortal, he would require the common folk to shower firecrackers upon him in atonement for his sins. The Bombing of Master Handan most often occurs at night. During the ceremony, Handan stands on a large palanquin and tours around the grounds. His head is tied with a red strip cloth, and he stands naked, ready to receive the bombardment. In each hand, he clutches a branch of banyan leaves used to disperse the smoke. People believe that the more the firecrackers that explode upon him, the better their fortune will be. Wherever Master Handan’s palanquin passes, therefore, follows a great cacophony of firecracker explosions and smoke. The Master himself, however, always stands out amid the chaos, displaying his majestic and imposing figure.

The exhilarating scene of the bombardment of Master Handan can only truly be experienced in person. Remember to take protective measures to be able to appreciate the wonderful charm of this yearly event fully; you can only experience in Taitung!

相比土地公的親切溫和,寒單爺可就是威風八面,不容冒犯的了。

寒單爺是台東很特殊的信仰。每年元宵節,台東市區都會上演炮炸寒單爺的精 采場面,炸寒單的起源眾說紛紜,有人說寒單爺怕冷,因此出巡時都要以大量鞭炮 驅寒;也有人說寒單爺生前作惡多端,成仙時大澈大悟,要鄉民們用炮炸祂藉此贖 罪。寒單爺出巡時,肉身寒單爺光裸上身站在神轎上,頭綁紅布條,手持榕樹枝葉, 用以驅散鞭炮煙霧。人們相信「鞭炮炸得愈旺,財運就會愈旺」,因此寒單爺神轎行 經的地方,總是鞭炮震天價響,轎班在濃濃硝煙下突出重圍,展現寒單爺威風凜凜 的姿態。

炮炸寒單爺的震撼,只有親自到現場才能體會,記得做好保護措施,才能真正 感受到這台東限定祭典的精采魅力!

The Story of a Time

In the 1950’s, in a very short span of time, in a very short space of time, the island welcomed a group of migrants numbering in the millions. They came from all over China, f leeing the devastation of war. They hardly would have expected to remain for the rest of their lives. At that time, the Taiwanese called them “mainlanders,” which essentially implies they are “outsiders”.

Making a Home in Taiwan

To accommodate the millions of recently arrived “mainlanders”, military villages had to be erected all over Taiwan. These villages became joint homes to people from provinces all over China, each speaking different languages and having different customs. They had no choice but to come together, forming a very special community.

Dawu Township, on Southern Cross-Island Highway, is still host to such an old village site. When walking into the old military village, time seems to stand still. The short stocky rows of adjoined houses are all white walls and black tiles, exuding a sense of order and refinement that is rare in Taiwan. The narrow village lanes can hardly fit more than two people at the same time. Cats roam about or laze along the uniform patios as if the village were originally built for them.

The elders who grew up in such villages recall that, at mealtimes, the smell of cookery would waft throughout the entire neighborhood. Everyone would try to guess which fragrant dishes were being prepared in their household. During the New Year, families would make a point of preparing specialty dishes from their hometowns and sharing them with their neighbors. If the parents are busy or away on some business, they can count on the neighbors to watch their children while they are away. These were the old days when children could still go out and play with no worries, dashing from house to house to play together. The feeling running through the military villages was not only the forlornness of those forced away from their homes but also the beauty and innocence of childhood.

Some of the uninhabited houses have now grown over with vegetation as if to confirm the end of an era. Over the years, people left the military villages to join the society outside of the military village structure.. The term “mainlander” or “outsider” has gradually faded from Taiwanese society, leaving only the imprint of memory on the culture.

時代的故事

1950 年代,島上迎來一批人數多達百萬人的移民,因為戰爭,他們不得不離開 家鄉來到島上,沒想過竟從此住了下來,當時島上的台灣人多叫他們「外省人」。

在台灣的家

為了安置數百萬「外省人」,台灣各地出現一個又一個的眷村,這些眷村容納了 說著不同語言的外省人,成為一個很特殊的生活圈。

南迴地區的尚武,現在還有當時的移民居住著。走進眷村,時光彷彿凝結在這 裡,低矮而棟棟相連的房舍,清一色是黑瓦白牆,顯出一種台灣少見的秩序美感; 狹窄的巷道,若是兩人並肩而走也略顯擁擠,貓咪悠然地走著躺臥著,倒像是本來 就為貓咪們而建了。

老人家們回憶,只要其中一戶人家煮菜特別香,那就是整排住家都聞得到,還 可以猜猜誰家的晚餐煮了什麼菜色;年節時,他們常會刻意地多準備一些家鄉味分 送鄰居;父母臨時有事,孩子往鄰居家一放便可安心出門,小時候孩子們就在一戶 又一戶之間穿梭玩耍。眷村,既承載了長者離家的心情,卻也同時孕育孩子們美好 而純真的童年。

而那些早已無人居住的屋子,有些已長出草木,像是印證一個時代的結束。離 開眷村的人們,融入了台灣這個大家庭,「外省人」一詞也逐漸在台灣社會中消失, 留下的是烙印在文化裡的記憶。

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These old buildings of military housing are an imprint of a past.
眷村裡的房舍是時代留下的印記。

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Beef noodles soup is symbolic of the taste of home for every Taiwanese.
牛肉麵是思鄉的味道。

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Boiled dumplings were brought to Taiwan by the immigrants from other provinces from mainland China several decades ago. Nowadays you can find delicious boiled dumplings everywhere. There are even boiled dumpling restaurant chains.
水餃在數十年前跟著外省人一起來到台灣,如今大街 小巷都能見到它的蹤影,連鎖店和小館都有好味道。

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The scallion pancake is always a delicious memorable treat, whether eaten plain or with fried egg or special sauces added.
簡單烙一塊蔥油餅,或加上蛋和醬料,好吃的蔥油餅令人回味無窮。

Taiwan’s fusion cuisine

Did you know that some of the most famous of Taiwan’s delicacies, such as Xiao Long Bao (soup dumpling), beef noodle soup, and scalli on pancakes, only appeared in Taiwan along with those who came fleeing from the war? Prior to this, Taiwan’s cuisine was mostly centered a round their rice culture of the Hokkien. Nowadays, of course, flour-based dishes hold a firm standing on the Taiwanese palate. In addition to this , the plethora of cuisines commonly found on the island include those of Hunan, Canton and Sichuan, and many others.

The people who came to Taiwan from other provinces naturally missed the food of their hometowns. Therefore, whenever they could, they would set about whipping up a bowl of hometown flavor using the ingredients at hand. In the military villages, people from all over would introduce each other to their favorite hometown dishes, and exchange tips and tricks, so that the mothers of the village were eventually able to make a whole variety of dishes, and raise children with diverse and well-honed palates.

Foods from various provinces spread out from the military villages and penetrated into Taiwan’s regular diet. The war caused diverse groups of people to come over, bring their food culture with them, and add to Taitung’s culinary experience. This eclectic fusion of cuisines is now just waiting for you to enjoy it.

各方美食融合薈萃

你知道小籠包、水餃、牛 肉麵、蔥油餅,這些台灣著名 的國民美食,是戰後跟著外省 人一起出現的嗎?在此之前, 台灣大多以閩南的米食文化為 主,如今麵食已在台灣占有一 席之地。與之而來的還有湘 菜、粵菜、川菜等不同菜系, 麻婆豆腐、獅子頭、臘肉,餐 桌上一道道美食,各自說著大江南北的故事。

外省人來到台灣生活,自然想念起家鄉飲食,閒暇之餘用著手邊類似的食材、記憶中的手法,拼拼湊湊的復刻出一碗碗家鄉味;而在眷村裡,住著來自不同出生 地的外省人,大家互相交流饋贈家鄉口味、切磋手藝,使得眷村裡的媽媽們每個都 練就出幾道不同口味的拿手好菜,也養成了孩子們對各方美食來者不拒的好胃口。

外省美食就這樣從眷村和家庭裡往外擴散,如今已深入台灣人的飲食之中,成 為日常的一部分。戰亂讓許多外省人輾轉來到台東,也帶來他們家鄉的飲食文化, 為台東人的餐桌增添新花樣,箇中的酸甜苦辣鹹,等著旅人前來品味。

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Expats restaurant owners offer a taste of home for homesick expats. People from Taitung also get to sample these exotic foreign cuisines.
異鄉人做著自家口味聊慰鄉愁,也讓台東人嚐到道地異國料理。

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Taitung’s beauty has attracted expats worldwide to now call it home. Their influence on local food can be experienced by all when visitors come to the east.
在台東可以吃到各國道地美食,來一場味蕾的探險吧!

The NEW “New Taitung Residents”

Over the past ten years or so, Taitung’s new immigrants have been gradually increasing. Some come for work, while others come to visit its unique sceneries and sights. Once thought to have been merely passing by, some of them have since fallen in love with the beauty of Taitung’s geography and culture. Settling here, these NEW ‘new Taitung residents’ add an abundant variety of sights, sounds and flavors to Taitung’s already rich cultural melting pot.

The new residents of Taitung have worked hard to delve into Taiwanese culture and observed the details of its daily life with a curious foreign gaze. There are many things that the local people have long been accustomed to, which, to newer residents, are novel and worthy of keen interest. Taitung is a land of limitless wonder in the eyes of these more recent new residents.

Walking on Jinzun Beach, you can hear different languages from all over the world as people greet one another. You can also watch diverse groups of surfers chasing after waves together and possibly grabbing a drink at a cozy Dulan bar to discuss tomorrow’s surf forecast. The streets of Taitung are host to a variety of exotic dishes; throughout the city, you will easily find restaurants serving indigenous, Hakkanese, Chinese, Southeast Asian, and Western cuisines, each with their own dedicated patrons.

People have come to reside here from all over and expressing that it’s hard to resist Taitung. Some might have even claimed that the Taitung soil is “sticky” and ”won’t let them go” so to speak.  A multitude of ethnic groups and cultures have become a regular part of Taitung’s unique scenery. Each of them adds their unique voice to the songs which are sung here together.

After your visit, will you perhaps become a NEW “new Taitung resident”?

新新台東人

近年來,台東的外籍移民比重逐漸增加,有些人是為了工作,也有些旅人不經 意的路過台東,被這裡的人文和風土之美給「黏住」,最後落腳於此,為台東的多元 文化大熔爐增添許多不同的樣貌。

這些被稱為「新住民」的人,努力學習台灣文化,也用著異國的眼光觀察生活的 細節,有許多本地人早已習以為常的事情,在他們眼中總是新奇無比,值得細膩刻 劃,告知遠方故鄉的友人,台東是個多麼美妙的地方。

走在金樽海灘,可以聽到各國語言互相打招呼,看見不同膚色的人站在浪上, 再一起回到都蘭小酒吧裡討論浪況,街上各種異國料理林立;走在台東市,原住民 料理、閩客菜系、眷村小館和麵食、東南亞料理,各有擁護者。

來自遠方的人們聚集在這裡,他們說「台東的土很黏。」不同的族群,不同的文化, 成為台東獨特的風景,他們用自己的方式,一起唱著南方的歌。

來到這裡的你,是否也會加入他們的行列,成為一名「新新台東人」呢?

Taitung – Stuck on Your Heart

An average meal plan in Taitung might look like this: in the morning, have a bowl of rice noodles; for lunch, a bowl of Sichuan braised beef noodles; for dinner, an indigenous-style roast chicken. One might join one’s work colleagues for a round of drinks and office gossip in the evening. On weekends, why not try some exotic cuisine? The palates of the people of Taitung are indeed quite complex.

Multiculturalism is in Taitung’s DNA. The streets resound with the sound of diverse languages. From north to south, the land is scattered with artwork by creators from various countries. The culinary delicacies of different ethnic groups call out to travelers to come and try them.  Because this vast sky is large enough to accommodate everyone to paint their own clouds and the open-mindedness mentality creates an inviting environment where everyone is tolerant of all peoples and cultures. In this land of diversity, anyone can find their place and, using their own words to speak their mind, sing the songs of the south together.

台東 – 黏住每個人的心

台東人的餐桌或許是這樣的,清晨吃著台式米苔目,午餐來一碗川味紅燒牛肉 麵,晚餐和同事一起吃著原住民風味烤雞,配著辦公事八卦乾杯,週末來點異國料 理。台東人的胃是不是相當多元?

多元的族群和文化是台東 DNA 的一部分,在街頭能聽見各種不同的語言,從南 到北,各國藝術創作者的作品佇立在不同的角落,各族群的特色飲食在街頭召喚旅 人嘗鮮;因為天地遼闊,足以容納四海八方,因為心胸寬廣,能接受各種不同的文化, 讓每個人在這裡找到安身立命的居所,說著自己的話,也一起唱著南方的歌。